Nishijin Lucky Welcom arrangeball bonus feature

As promised, here is a short explanation of the bonus feature of the Nishijin Lucky Welcome arrangeball.

The bonus feature is located at the top of the playfield and starts when the first winning combination is achieved on the main card. You only get one bonus feature per game.

The bonus feature consists of 8 panels that are lit in sequence rapidly, like a really fast light chaser that goes from left to right.

The player presses the bonus feature button on the left of the cabinet to stop the feature on one of the panels. It's a kind of skill stop feature. 

Once pressed the feature animation will stop on one of the 8 panels that will stay lit for a few seconds.

There are four green panels that pay out 1 token automatically. 

That's on top the standard payout from the main card, just to be clear.

There are 4 panels that will prompt a second spin cycle localized within that one panel.

Those panels are divided into 3 different coloured sections. There is a light animation that spins clockwise during the second spin cycle. Pressing the feature button will skill stop the animation on one of the panel's section.

This panel will  pay out 1 token OR 2 tokens OR 1 token.

There are 3 panels that will spot numbers on the main card as a result of the secondary spin cycle.

By "spot" I mean that the number is lit on the main card, without having to land a ball.

Of course, these spotted number count for winning combinations on the main card and stay lit for the remainder of the game.

This panel spots 5 OR 8 and 12 OR 9 

This panel spots 1 and 6 OR 1, 4, 13 and 16 OR 7 and 11

This panel spots 2 OR 14 and 15 OR 3

  

Here is a short video of the bonus feature with only 1 skill stop landing on payout 1 token.

Here is another short video with the first and second spin cycle ultimately landing on payout 2 tokens.

Walkthrough of Japanese warehouse of vintage pachinko and pachislo

I want to share this awesome walkthrough video of a warehouse full of vintage pachinko and pachislo machines in Japan. My favorite part is 5:45 to 10:50. *Not my video*

Also check out the channel スロアフロ. Really cool videos with alot of 80's and 90's gameplay content.

スロアフロ 

Enjoy!

Nishijin Arrangeball: small repairs and flattening warped plastic in the oven

Nishijin Lucky Welcome Arrangeball Repairs

First things first: When working on Japanese domestics products, use JIS screwdrivers to avoid stripping the screws. Here's the set I use on my games.

I guess a good starting point for the repairs is the auction item description:

Translation from YJA

First issue: "there were places where the ball did not light up"

That was a funny one. The first time I played the game, I noticed the wrong number would light up on the card. Example: I'd hit a 11 and 6 would light up or hit 2 and 14 would light up.

At first I thought the connector for the card light PCB might have been plugged backwards, the wiring loom did have an unnatural kink going to the board, but I noticed the connector was keyed when I pulled it, so that wasn't the problem. Turns out it was just the whole card lamp board was installed upside down. As can be seen in the auction picture below.

Picture from YJA

Light board right side up

Second issue: "Pachinko balls can be hit endlessly."

That one was a lever to the ball release coil that was intentionally pulled by repositioning the return spring,  jamming the ball release gate in the open position, so that the balls would continuously circulate to the shooter. Flipped the lever back in it's intended position and bingo.

Ball release fixed

The MAJOR problem with this game was the card that was melted into an unsightly mess. It didn't affect gameplay but it looked awful. 

 

I guess that at some point the card number bulbs were replaced with lamps that ran too hot when lit and the game stayed on too long. The card warped and sagged from the heat.

I decided to try flattening the card using my kitchen oven. But first I had to remove the card.

To remove the card, first I had to remove the card lamp board.

With the lamp board out (again) I replaced all the lamps with new 2187 bulbs that run way cooler.

Then I removed the card besel and the pegs that held the card to the shroud. To remove the 4 chromed pegs in the centre of the card. First I had to remove nuts in the back of the shroud, then I had to gently persuade the pegs out with a pair of miniature vise-grips. To avoid damaging the chrome I put some duct tape on the jaws of the pliers. Pro tip ;) 

Here's what the front of the game looks like with the bezel and card removed.

Once the card removed I took a few detailed pictures just in case I totally mess up and had to get the card reproduced somehow.

This picture really doesn't show just how badly the card was warped. It was the elephant man of arrangeball cards 

As can bee seen from the back of the shroud, the bulbs ran way too hot!

Here's a pinside thread about flattening pinball plastics.

I used that information as a starting point for my experiment.

The trick is to soften the plastic by heating it up, close to the melting point but below the boiling point (That's when you get bubbles in the plastic).

What people fail to consider is that regular ovens suck at controlling temperature. The dial is vague at best and the heat control is awful. The temperature oscillates +20 and -20 degrees celcius from the set point in my oven.

For better control and temperature reading, I used my multimeter that came with a thermocouple

I found two pieces of thick plate glass in my supplies and sandwiched the card in between, then put it in the oven at a low (safe) temperature.

Getting the oven warmed up:

No, I didn't heat the plastic directly on the rage element. I was just illustrating getting ready

The thermocouple supplied with my multimeter.

I slowly and gradually turned up the heat in the oven and continuously monitored the temperature and state of the card. The plastic became soft at a temperature between 110 and 120 degrees Celsius (that's 230 to 250 in Freedom degrees). The card flattened out just with the weight of the glass.

The end result isn't great but at least the card is is flat now. Looks way better. I'm satisfied the result considering the state of the card.

To wrap up this post here's a couple teaser videos of the bonus feature in action.