Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 10, 2019

1949 Bally Champion One Ball pictures

Here's a gratuitous dump of pictures from a 1949 Bally Champion rare horse racing game.
I'm looking for documentation (manual, schematics, etc.) (BTW) on this game.
Enjoy!



Inverted cow catcher coin chute. Love it!



A strange serial number badge?




Beautiful side art



An actual production date



The proverbial "One Ball"


More to come...
I'm soldering jones connectors as I publish this.


Thursday, September 5, 2019

1949 Bally Champion One Ball Project

New arrival to the collection
1949 Bally Champion

A genuine bona fide One Ball Horse Racing gambling machine.

I've wanted a One ball for almost as long as I've been collection bingo machines...
Drove basically a whole day to and back to pick it up.
Just took a chance on it. The ad was up for a while despite the price being very good.
I didn't even know if the machine would fit in my minivan.

Just drove and took a chance.


Fortunately for me. The back leg was broken somewhere far back in the machine's turbulent past. It was held by a couple of flimsy pieces of wood, glue and a few wood screws. This allowed me to take the back leg off. That gave me just enough space to fit in the Sienna.

This game is Massive. It's HEAVY. I had no Idea how bulky these games were.
The fit was so close, I had to take off the front levellers just to clear the rear hatch.

Once I got the machine home however. I had to deal with the broken cabinet...
I decided to make the back leg removable IF (and that's a big if) I ever want to move the game.

First, I removed and cleaned the original repair.


I got some construction adhesive, 3/4 in plywood and carriage bolts at the hardware store.


I cut some pieces of plywood.

Cheapskate trick: If you only need a small piece of plywood and don't want to spend for a whole 4 X 8 sheet. Most big box home improvement stores have a cutting service department. They usually have cutting remnants. They aren't supposed to sell remnants but they usually do anyway. I got a convenient 12 inch by 8 foot stip of plywood for a canadian fivver. Pretty sweet...


PL glue job with 1 1/4" nail gun staples (not shown) and obligatory clamps. 24 hour cure time.



Next step was drilling holes for the carriage bolts


I made a crude template for drilling the necessary hoes.
Mostly just to have the same pattern on both sides of the cabinet.


The finished product is very solid and the back leg is removable if ever necessary.
I made sure everything was straight before bolting it together.

It doesn't look too bad.


Next step is to take care of the crummy jones connectors.
I predict lots of soldering in my near future. 


This is looking like a typical pindude152 project. Driving way too far for a NO value game that requires a ton of work and potentially lots of spare parts.

I'm not complaining, I welcome the challenge.

BTW
I'm looking for a (free) scan of the Schematics and/or the manual, since neither are available on IPDB.

To be continued.
Heck! I don't even know how this is going to end. I'm posting stuff as I do the repairs .

Sunday, June 17, 2018

Bally Capersville coindoor wire repair

The wiring on my Capersville looked a little ragged. It worked but it looked really bad.

The plan was to bring the game to the 2018 Canada Pincon pinball show.

I imagined the wiring would give out at the worst possible moment at the show.

A bit of refurbishing was in order.

Wiring Before:

coin door wiring
Capersville coin door wiring before

Almost all the wires were broken. Most of them had the twist and tape routine.
The one wire that wasn't taped was barely holding by a strand.

I spliced and soldered the wires and finished them with some heat shrink tubing.
I even took the time to redo the wire dressing.  

Capersville
Repaired wiring

I finished the job by adding some nylon spiral wire wrap for additional protection. That way, it's unlikely the wires will get pinched in the door hinge.

Capersville door wire loom
Finished Capersville coin door wire repair



Thursday, February 23, 2017

On Beam Trip bank armature mystery?


When I started working on On Beam. I noticed some of the trip bank armatures looked a bit weird. Some were broken, some were replaced with some strange mystery part that sorta did the job.

More importantly, I noticed that the first armature, on top of being all messed up, was missing a small 90 degree piece of metal that would stop half of the trip bank from resetting when the reset motor was running. Without that small 90 degree piece the game would never work properly.

The other trip armatures were not a problem to replace since I had a bunch of spares from parts machines as they are commonly used in later bingo machines.

The first armature is cactus but the 4th trip has the part I need

Serendipitously, I also noticed that the 4th armature was the wrong kind installed for that trip, but it was the correct armature I was missing for the first trip. The 1st trip required A-261-12. The 4th trip had a A-261-12 but required a A-261-11. So my missing part problem was solved...


A hodgepodge of armatures

From the Bally 1976 parts catalog

This whole story of the A-261-12 in the wrong place got me thinking. How or why was it installed in the wrong place, yet so conveniently...there for me to use it to fix the game?

Maybe it goes back to when the machine was assembled at the Bally factory. Maybe the factory worker assembling the trip bank ran out of A-261-11 and installed a A-261-12 instead.

Maybe that factory worker was really a latent precog. That he subconsciously knew that by installing that part, he would save a lot of grief to one of the future owners of the game that would be stuck with the broken missing part. Maybe the factory worker's precog ability subconsciously guided his hand to the wrong parts tray.

Maybe I got the part in there. That is the future me, reflecting on how I once had this On Beam game but that it never did work properly because of the missing part. But fortunately for the future me, Time Travel technology would be available, allowing the future me to go back in time, get that armature, hastily install the part in the game before I would first acquire the game...

Maybe it's a different me. That is, an analogue of myself in a parallel universe. Very similar to this one except that the Time Travel equations and all the other technological details are commonly available. In this parallel universe, time travel tourism is not illegal but strongly frowned upon. Unfortunately for my parallel self, the missing armature is no longer available in his universe. Therefore, it was simpler to go back in time to get the missing part. Maybe this other self from the parallel universe built a time machine to go back in time to the Bally factory in 1969 for a tour of the plant on the day that my On beam was being assembled. Maybe my other self distracted the factory worker at a critical moment, resulting in the wrong armature plate being installed. Unfortunately for my parallel self, he built his time machine from cheap eBay parts. Resulting in a faulty time machine that not only travels through time but also through parallel universes. He ended up in this (my) past timeline, similar enough to his own timeline for him not to notice the shift until he travelled back to his own present where he would find his On Beam still missing the part. Thinking his time altering actions were all in vain.

Eventually the Time police caught up with all these timeline altering shenanigans. To return the equilibrium to the timeline, a Time Police constable installed in my On Beam a faulty A-261-12 armature that broke soon after I got the machine working. 



Fortunately for me in this timeline, Pinball Resource has the part in stock. I ordered a bunch. Apparently, PBR bought a parts inventory from a defunct amusement operator, the armature was part of that inventory lot, but maybe there's a lot more the this story....

Maybe one of my time travelling parallel self stepped on a cockroach in 1969 that wasn't supposed to die. It died only because of the On Beam armature saga. Maybe it resulted in a similar timeline chain reaction as in Ray Bradbury's short story A sound of thunder?

Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Bally Nip-it Ball count unit issue ultimate repair UPDATE

I've been playing alot of Nip-It lately. I've been testing the delay unit I installed and so far the ball count unit is working perfectly. A few 100's of plays and all is good.

I did make a modification to my delay unit circuit. Playing the game, I realised that I didn't need 2 seconds of delay for the balls to reach their trough switches. I removed the second 1000 uF capacitor, dropping the delay to approximately one second. Plenty of extra time.

Here is an updated version of the delay unit diagram.

Simple diagram of the delay circuit

Delay unit with second capacitor removed



 

Saturday, November 12, 2016

Bally Nip-it Ball count unit issue ultimate repair

I recently acquired another multiball EM Bally, Nip-It. This small category of games is my all time favorite. The expense was significant...

(and honestly not really worth it. Nip-it's notoriety stems from it being in the retro sitcom Happy Days. Otherwise, the gameplay is just OK)

...and after playing a few games, I noticed that Nip-it had a problem:

Nip-It when it first came home

After the ball in play would drain, the ball count unit wouldn't always step up. If it was the 5th ball, the game would not go to game over. This happened once in a while.

I had a good look at the schematics and made sure every element involved in the circuit was clean and properly gapped.

Bally Nip it schematic detail for ball count unit.

The circuit does go through the coin unit disc. But in first position (i.e. 1 player game) the juice is patched to the ball count unit. All the malarchy with the player up disc interplay with the coin unit disc is to step up the player up unit, instead of the ball count unit, in a multiplayer game.

The stuff regarding the ball count disc and the balls per play adjustment has to to with the game over relay. Not relevant for the problem at hand.

Basically, in normal play. Once the game is conditioned to release the ball (ball release re. switch closed) the ball index re. switch is closed (because points were scored), 2nd Ball re. switch is closed because there are no free moving balls still in play. SCM 3b switch is momentarily closed (because the cams are rotating) and the juice energizes the ball count unit step up solenoid by way of the coin unit disc.

The core of the matter was the 2nd ball relay sometimes not energizing when it was supposed to. After the outhole kicker kicks the ball to the ball trough, the 2nd ball relay should energise if both balls are out of play.

"Out of play", that is:

Both balls are in the ball trough

OR

One ball is in the trough and the other is in the captive hole (i.e. no free moving ball(s) in play).



Only then is the ball count unit allowed to step up through the 2nd ball relay et al.

The problem is that for the 2nd ball relay to energize the Outhole relay has to be energized.

Bally nip-it schematic detail for outhole relay and outhole relay


The Outhole relay is energized by the outhole switch through SCM 1c N.C. switch. The relay is then held in through itself and SCM 10c normally closed switch.


What happens is that once kicked,  the ball traveling in the trough has to be in place on it's trough switch before the outhole switch circuit is broken. Otherwise the 2nd ball relay won't energize and the ball count unit won't step up.

Nip-It outhole kicker schematic detail

A Bally score motor spins at 26 rpm and s spin cycle is 180 degrees (half a turn). So one SCM spin cycle lasts 1.15 seconds. Furthermore, a 180 degree spin cycle is divided into 8 periods (0 to 7). one period is 0.14 seconds. The ball is kicked up the trough at period 2. The outhole relay hold in circuit is broken at period 7. That allows a whole 0.72 second (maybe a bit less, my math is a bit sloppy) for the ball to make it from the outhole to it's ball trough switch. That's not much time. If the ball does not make it on time, the outhole re. de-energizes and the 2nd ball wont energize, a ball is released to the shooter lane and the ball count unit won't step up.

Nip it Score Motor sequence of operation


If the outhole kicker punts the ball, which happens every once in a while in these old games, the ball takes too much time to make it to the trough switch, the outhole relay de-energizes, the ball is not in place and the 2nd ball relay won't energize.

Basically, for the game to work properly 100% of the time, I needed more time allowed for the ball to make it to its trough rest position. I needed the SPDT switch on the outhole relay the remain actuated a second or two more to allow enough time for the ball to find its rest position in the ball trough.

This could not be achieved within the machine as it was. I needed to take out the SPDT switch from the outhole relay and put in on a delay relay that I would shoehorn into the game. I used a simple delay circuit found in a bingo machine. So basically, Bally already had this circuit in it's Bag-O-tricks at the time, they just didn't use it in Nip-It.

Delay relay schematic diagram, Inspired by the circuit found in Bally Bali bingo, but adapted by pindude152

Modified Nip-It Schematic detail. SPDT switch now on delay relay

So what now happens is that the outhole relay would energize the delay relay. The delay relay would remain energized as long as the outhole re. would be energized, but the delay relay would allow the SPDT switch to remain actuated for a couple of seconds after the outhole relay would de-energize. Enough time for the ball to make it to the trough switch. And bingo! the game now plays like it should.

Delay Relay shoehorned into Nip-It. The 2 capacitor setup looks a bit "Ghetto" but I didn't have a 2000uf 50V capacitor, so I put 2 x 1000uf caps in parallel. It works but it aint pretty. 

Up until now, my mantra was "the problem is always inside the cabinet". But for nip-it it turns out the solution was outside the game. When the game was brand new, it probably worked like clockwork but after 40 years, the game still works OK, but not perfectly under every possible circumstance, so to palliate the subsidence of the game into kipple I had to slightly modify the game, especially if I intend to operate this game.

Monday, November 7, 2016

Bally Nip-it: Desperation, the mother of invention

Here's a picture of Nip-it with two multimeters and the PF apron removed.

Let me explain a bit.

I'm play testing the game with an intermittent problem and I need to know the exact moment when the Outhole relay and the 2nd ball relay are energized. I obviously can't play the game and look at the relays at the same time. The solution: put a multimeter on each relay set on ACV.

The interplay of these two relays is critical for the proper operation of the game. The Outhole relay,  2nd ball relay and the ball trough switches affect the ball count unit stepping up and the multiball logic of the game.

I'm playing the game and paying close attention to the actuation of the aforementioned relays by way of the meters when a ball drains. All in the hope of catching the bug.

More details in a future more elaborated post.