Showing posts with label flipperless. Show all posts
Showing posts with label flipperless. Show all posts

Thursday, February 11, 2021

1936 Bally Challenger One Ball Payout Pinball repairs

 Since the previous post

The cabinet was glued up. Looks like it was "repaired" at some point by a previous owner but ever since I got the game, the front left corner was split.

I got Challenger going. Fixing up the game wasn't really exciting stuff to write about.

All in all, there was 3 half ass days of work. Just basic stuff: clean, burnish, lubricate, look for obvious broken stuff then power up and troubleshoot. It's an exceeding simple game. My example of Challenger was fairly untouched, that helped a lot.

The game uses reed connectors that all need to be burnished. I use commercial grade green scotch brite pads I cut up into small squares.



Connections between head and body.

Took off the shutter to clean all the switches

I took out the payout unit, took it apart as much as I dared to clean and lubricate the moving parts. I noticed there was a seized sliding bracket. I had to let that marinate in oil for 24 hours and then with some patience and gentle persuasion managed the free up the part.


Embiggen for details

The payout drum has brass traces that needed to be burnished. I used a fiberglass sanding pen to clean the traces.

To help me with the repairs. I got a second Challenger parts machine from my friend Caitlyn. I don't know the machine's history or how she got the machine in the first place but it was very useful.

My Challenger

Cait's Challenger

The electromechanical bits in Caitlyn's game were completely modified. Apart from the odds drum unit, nothing was compatible with my example but the playfield was in a bit better condition than my example. My challenger has a dent in the playfield and most of the flag springs were broken. I decided to swap the best parts to the parts machine playfield and use that with my cabinet and head.

Batteries / Voltage:

Looking at the battery box in my Challenger and confirmed with Caitlyn's Challenger there were 10 batteries. Presuming that the machine used No 6, 1.5V dry cells, that would add up to 15 volts. Until I can find some suitable transformer, I will use a variac with a bridge rectifier and capacitor to power the game.

Looking at the playfield, I noticed a patent that wasn't mentioned in any of the ad's: 2,029,177 Game Apparatus by Bon MacDougall.


From what I understand from the IPDB entries Bon MacDougall was first employed, or at least designed for PAMCO then with Bally. That might explain the similarities between the One Balls produced by Bally and PAMCO.

Again, perusing IPDB, I found that the same game design was used multiple times by Bally and PAMCO...

Bally Derby, that conveniently has schematics. Speaking of schematics... also found a picture of the schematic for a Bally Prospector of the same era. Not exactly the same as Challenger but close enough to have a good idea of how it works.

PAMCO: Here are a few examples of one balls using the same electromechanical design and playfield layout.

Red Sails

Speedway

Parlay Senior, Notice it is almost identical to Bally Derby.

I think what differentiated Challenger from other similar One Ball games of the era is the multiplier.

How the feature works from the player's perspective, just like the red arrow says, first Nickel resets and starts the game. Manually raise the ball to the shooter lane. Then additional Nickels can be played to multiply the odds. Up to 3 additional Nickels for a 4X multiplier. Guaranteed step up for each Nickel played.

There are 6 odds steps: 2, 4, 6, 10, 16, 30

Payout odds are displayed for each numbered hole

The Odds Drum has a total of 24 odds combinations.






With a 4X multiplier, thats a maximum of 120 Nickels! Thats 6 bucks in 1936 money. Today that would be worth almost 113 dollars but consider that one play today would be worth about 1 dollar according to the US inflation calculator.

Electromechanically the multiplier is accomplished by way of a stepped plate that shifts 3 steps by way of a step up solenoid to push multiple payout slides. One slide pushes 2 Nickels at a time. There's a stack of 4 payout slides. At the start of a new game the multiplier is shifted to home position.


Game impressions:

The nautical artwork is absolutely beautiful. It's quality artwork that you would expect seeing as a framed print. The cabinet is tall and imposing. The diminutive head looks awkward on such a large cabinet.

It's as bland as you can imagine. Backbox lighting is minimal. The playfield layout, with all the flag springs makes it almost impossible to hit a hole that pays out. That's to be expected from a game that has all but one holes that pay out!

As for historical relevance, Challenger is an example of early games with changing odds. The "One Ball" concept is contrary to later One Balls. In other / later One ball games, only the lighted selections pay out, all the other holes lose. In Challenger, all the numbered holes pay. The Mystery Purse and the Grand Trophy hole pay an award of at least 10 nickels, all the way to 30 Nickels on a basic game. But the fact that's it's virtually impossible to hit a winner makes the game feel rigged and has little "play again appeal". I suspect the players who played these games when they were new caught on pretty fast. 

If you do manage to hit a winner. Coins drop into a spring loaded drawer.

The machine also has a EM sounder that knocks as coins are paid out. The sounder has an on/off switch for the operator.

Tilt Bob and Sounder

The game has a Nickel Validator (or would it be more appropriate to call it a conveyor or elevator... They call it an Escalator in the Flyer) To see if a player wasn't using wooden nickels or metal slugs. The coins drop into the payout tube at the end of the conveyor. Once full, excess Nickels drop into a cash box.



Friday, February 5, 2021

1936 Bally Challenger One Ball Payout pinball Introduction

1936 Bally Challenger One ball payout Introduction




As I write these words, it’s winter, I’m bored from my day job and there’s a night time curfew because of some virus that shall remain unnamed.


So What do I do? Take a week off work to fix up a project game of course!


The project: 1936 Bally Challenger One ball PAYOUT machine.


I bought Challenger back in October 2016 at the Church of the Silver Ball Swap meet.


You can even see the game loaded in the minivan in one of my early blog posts.



One ball machines were a type of gambling machine popular at the time.


Later One Ball games typically had horse racing themes and for that reason, were widely referred to as horse racing games.




When One ball games were outlawed by the 1951 Johnson act, Bingo machines took over the ecological niche of the “One Ball”.


On a personal level I’ve been wanting to take care of Challenger for awhile now. It has beautiful nautical themed artwork and it pays out in Nickels in a small spring loaded drawer.





Since I repaired First Race and Hustler Arrangeball, I’ve taken a liking for games that pay out coins or tokens. Over the 20+ years of collecting and repair of amusement devices, I’ve become a bit bored with vanilla flipper pinballs and arcades.


When playing a payout game: hearing those coins being paid out automatically, that metallic staccato is music to my ears.



My example of Challenger is in reasonably good condition. The cabinet requires a bit of a glue job and the electro-mechanical bits need a refurbishing. The game is non working.




There’s not much information about Challenger online. I’ve found only one good picture of a Challenger… on IPDB and I strongly suspect that it’s a picture of the actual machine I have.


On the IPDB entry for Challenger there’s two advertisements that refer to two US patents in small print:


1802521 and 2010966


Other than that, No schematics, no manual. No information.


It’s a battery operated game and I don’t even know how many batteries it requires. Don't worry! I have a plan.


This is experimental archeology. 


The more I learn about this era of games, the more I realize that there’s more information that has been lost, forgotten, than what information we collectors have gleaned collectively.



In my mind, 1936 is a watershed year for amusement with the release of Bumper: first game with electromechanical scoring and electrified bumpers. It’s one of my favourite Bally games. It has simple, yet beautiful artwork and it’s a must have for a serious historical pinball collector. I’m looking forward to bringing Challenger, another 1936 game, back to working order.



There’s a frumpy looking red arrow sticker on Challenger's apron. It reads:

CAUTION:

After depositing first coin

Raise ball to shooting position

Before depositing additional coins


Interesting: Multiple coins! Multiplier?


Next post, more overview and repairs begin

Monday, January 18, 2021

Which one would you rather play?

1972 Bally Fireball or 1940 Gottlieb Score Card?

One is ubiquitous among the serious electro-mechanical collectors. The greatest EM ever produced bla, bla, bla.

The other is extremely marginal.

Choose...



If you chose the latter, you're my kind of pinballer.

Cheers!

Sunday, May 10, 2020

1940 Gottlieb Score Card Repairs

1940 Gottlieb Score Card

As previously mentioned. I got this machine in 2013. When I first got it the ball shooter housing was busted. It took me until 2017 to find a good one. Found it at Allentown Pinfest.

Unsightly busted ball shooter housing

Much Better

Back of the cabinet was previously broken off and was replaced by some piece of wood. I had to re-glue part of the back and I added some home made angle brackets for added strength. Otherwise the cabinet would have fallen apart again.





I changed the line cord. Added a 3A line fuse. Redid the 120V wiring to the timer and credit unit. During normal play, pushing in the coin slide would wind up the time clock switch and turn the machine on. After a delay, the clock would wind down, open the switch and the machine would turn off. However, if credits were accumulated during play, machine stays on as long as there are credits on the unit.

The circuit looks like this. This shot is from a Gottlieb Humpty Dumpty Schematic.


I noticed the transformer was replaced at one point. I left it as is. The wiring looked sound.

Under every ball of electrical tape hides a horror

There was a couple of busted male jones plugs (a 10 pin and a 20 pin) I had to change. The thing about these old Gottlieb games is that the connectors used have shorter pins than later games. I managed to find the correct plugs in my pile of parts.


I changed the fuse clips. They were both bad.

Total play meter gave up at 4999 plays

The plastic insulators on the brass armature flaps of the trip banks had disintegrated. Some had turned to goo. Some were brittle and were falling apart. I suspect someone at one point used contact cleaner to clean the trip bank switches. The chemicals attacked the insulators.


Fortunately I found some donor plastic insulators from a parts trip bank I had.


Looking in an early 50's Wico parts catalog, I noticed the insulators were listed so this might not have been an uncommon problem at the time.



Then I tightened up all the switch stack screws. They were all surprisingly loose.



Then I went over and cleaned every switch. They were all caked over with corrosion and old dust. It's easier to do the work with the playfield flipped over.


Then I did the head. Cleaned the switches. Burnished the pads on the contact discs. Small top stepper unit is for the 100 points. Bottom left is credits. Bottom right is is 1000 points stepper. R type relay in the head is for the 100 points step up coil.


One pitfall to avoid on these large Gottlieb stepper units are the insulators on the ratchet gear pins. The ratchet gear has one or two pins for the zero and the open at top. The insulating material on the pin tends to perish and fall apart. The stepper unit frame is either hot or wired to the common, so once the unit resets or maxes out (depending on the case), the uninsulated pin shorts out on the switch blade. So pay close attention to those insulators.

Stepper I had in a box of parts. Easier to photograph

After all those repairs. There comes the time consuming part. Troubleshooting! Troubleshooting is a difficult thing to explain. It's a skill in itself. It involves a lot of observation, circuit tracing and thinking. These old games were frequently modified by the operator, some features were removed. You have to figure out what was done and reverse it. You have to play test the game, try all the features. make sure they work. On Score Card, the Rollover Special feature was disabled. a jumper was removed on the rollover feature stepper.

Special rollover feature stepper.

 Reset arm is actuated by slide.

These old Gottlieb pingames usually had a relay map stapled to the inside of the cabinet. No map in Score Card! So here's what I figured out for relay functions.

Left R relay is the slow drop impulse generator control. Switch stack to the right is the Knock off button.


Right of the Knock off button switch stack is the Hold Relay. On the right is the Tilt relay.


Before the Score motor, there was the Slow drop impulse generator. It generates impulses at a slow and steady rate for the knock off reset and the special rollover features.


Resistor seen in front of the slow drop is for the chime coil. Lowers the voltage. The chime looks like a re-purposed door bell, seen in this machine also, so it seems like it was from factory.

Interesting and random stuff:

Resistor in the backbox is for the TILT light.


Backbox notice.



Time clock. Switches on / off 120V. Pin on slide pushes the arm to wind up the clock


Under playfield, tilt spring. The spring is the same as for the spring bumpers.


A piece of copper was added between the tilt bob and the cabinet armor. It zaps you if you touch the armor. 


Panel Scoring is displayed going up to 69 900 points...


But there's no light behind the 60 000 panel. Maybe that 60k panel was there just for the symmetry of the backglass.



Coin slide and free play coil.
S.P.D.T switch enables knock off button in rest position or energizes free play coil if the slide is slightly pushed in.



Infamous Knock Off button on bottom of cabinet on the left side.


This is as much pinball repair as it's experimental archeology.

Enjoy!